Crowds and Bali go hand in hand and that’s even for Mount Batur, the most popular volcano hike in Bali. But having done that many years ago, I was intrigued by Java and the fact that there are 45 volcanoes in Java alone.

The most visited of all is the combination of visiting Kawah Ijen Volcano, to witness the Blue Fire phenomenon.

However, the Blue Fire phenomenon is no longer possible as the park only opens at 4.00am, and they do not allow tourists to visit the top of the crater at midnight or 2.00am due to the inherent risks in the surrounding area.

Despite this, I got to hike a composite volcano in the easternmost part of Java and have morning views of the largest natural acidic in the world.

At 2,386 metres, the last eruption of the Ijen Volcano was in 2002.

Chances of being caught in a volcano mid-eruption were rare, but still, my paranoia and fear was 3x more vivid after watching Netflix’s documentary on the volcanic eruption off the coast of New Zealand in 2019.

Nobody wants to think the worst and that is quickly being put aside once you are in Java. It is densely populated with 141.4 million residents on this island.

For an entire island with volcanoes, the population density is 1,100 people per square km. That’s nuts!

The Journey to Banyuwangi and The Tour I did!

From bali to Ijen crater enroute to banyuwangi. first glimpse of the volcano

This tour that I took was perfect for solo-travellers and even large groups. It includes transport (the biggest expense), accommodation and a guide!

The journey is long and starts with a pick-up in a central area in Canggu/Ubud at around 2pm and you will travel approximately for 8 hours there and 8 hours return.

By the time we reach Banyuwangi where the accommodation is you’re treated for a nice local dinner after being on the ferry for an hour or so.

At midnight, you will be picked up from your accommodation and it is approximately a 1.5 hours drive to the starting point of the Kawah Ijen Volcano trek.

The hike to the crater would take approximately 1.5 hours to 2 hours by foot. At approximately, 4am is when the climb up to Kawah Ijen begins.

Also Read: Honest Guide To Bali’s Best Snorkelling Spots: From Amed to Nusa Penida

The Kawah Ijen Volcano Hike

mount kawah Ijen hike with people from the group

The beginning of the journey includes a briefing from a guide where he explains the purpose and use of these gas masks.

We were also given jackets, and beanies to wear on this trek just in case you didn’t bring any jackets for this trip.

At approximately 4am we began hiking the Kawah Ijen Volcano mountain.

You’d think that it is in Java and not be that crowded as what business do local people have climbing a mountain? But, boy we were wrong!

Turns out it was Eid in Indonesia and many locals came in droves to hike the mountain.

And even if you couldn’t climb mountains, there were locals being ferried in wheelbarrows up these mountains for $100.

This was possibly why the mountain was overrun with people — because anybody could just give up halfway and pay. It supports the miners as well who find alternative ways of surviving under the shadow of these mountains.

I tried to avoid judgment and focused on going up. As this was a volcanic mountain, expect sandy gravel, and loose soil as you constantly trudge upwards.

Sunrise views

It feels like you’re in Jurassic park when the sun slowly comes up and you see mist alongside the Ijen plateau.

The shades of brown and green are quickly transformed and the skies turn into this magical orange and blue. There’s a lot of stillness in the air as you can smell the sulphur.

Reaching Ijen Crater

first view of the bright turquoise blue acidic lake

We reached the Ijen Crater and the bright turquoise blue acidic lake shone in the distance.

The sulfur made it hard to breathe and we were constantly wearing and taking off gas masks depending on the wind positions on that day.

There is enough gas to fully engulf the entire crater if the wind was calm enough. The primary concern is, in fact, the wind!

As cool as a spectacle it can be, I can only wonder how acidic the lake is. It currently has a PH of 0.5. The lower the PH the more dissolving power it has.

Finding a quiet spot to take it all in required walking to the end of the ridge.

We found many quiet spots and refused to turn this spectacle into another Instagram photo shoot.

The Life of Miners

As you all know by now that sulfur mining has its hazards. The sulfur gases are poisonous and continuous exposions or phreatic eruptions have killed many miners.

You’ll find miners trying to sell these sulfur deposits as souvenirs to tourists but their bloodshot eyes tell the tale of their suffering. They don masks, and earn approximately 10 USD per day.

The same sulfur that we use in cosmetics and for bleaching sugar are what these miners are working for.

Mount Ijen has one of the last remaining active sulfur mines in the world and tourists and scientists all over the world have been captivated by this area making it quite the controversial tourist attraction that it is!

In this case, tourism can be seen as a powerful tool and somewhat grosteque and deplorable due to the unfavourable working conditions that these miners face.

Walking ahead to the viewpoints

volcano views covered in ash as we headed towards the end

We spent atleast an hour walking along this ridge to the end and coming across two epic branches sort of framing the lake.

You can find many quiet moments as you walk along and wait for the sun to pop in it is full glory at roughly 6.40am.

There’ll be scenes of dust, gravel and the lake as well which partially looks like you’ve stepped into mars.

The descent

wheelbarrows for people who refuse to reach the top on their own

On our way down, the paths were clearer and the green landscapes and lush mountains were more vivid.

You will be asked if you want to be ferried down on a wheelbarrow if you have no mood to trek down.

It was a bit slippery when we were heading down and if your shoes have not such a great traction, you’d want to zig-zag your way down or be more sure-footed in your steps.

Local Lunch & Ferry Ride

We were treated to a local lunch consisting of egg curry, noodles and some fritters with watermelon. The ferry ride on our way back was stunningly beautiful!

The blue waters and views of a clear blue sky were enough reasons for me to consider coming back to Jawa.

There are plenty of waterfalls and mountains to be discovered if you’re not in a rush.

One of the most notable waterfalls is the Tumpak Sewu waterfalls, a tiered waterfall that makes this mammoth beauty totally worth the extended stay.

A company here provides a private tour to these waterfalls that are worth considering on your extended trip.

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Hiking Kawah Ijen Crater From Bali in 24 Hours: My Complete Guide to Climbing The Volcano