The iconic Sri Lanka train ride to Ella from either Kandy or Nuwara Eliya can’t be missed for anything in the world.

It may bear resemblance to Darjeeling’s toy ride in India but over here the scenery is something else: you get a heady mix of misty mountains, tea plantations and lush landscapes.

While every tourist rocks up at Kandy to take the train, I am going to tell you why you should go to Nuwara Eliya instead.

I don’t get why everybody suggests to go to Kandy — there’s not a lot to do, it is chaotic and there’s far more things to experience in Nuwara Eliya.

The biggest pros out of all of it: The train journey is shorter between 2 hours to 3.5 hours and you get a more relaxed start with some of the most stunning landscapes of the hills right from the beginning.

The trains from Kandy to Ella is 7 hours — that’s crazy!

I would lose my mind eventhough it is undoubtedly one of the best train experience, but everyone is also vying for the same experience making it chaotic and crowded.

Also read: The Epic Sri Lanka Travel Itinerary: 2 Weeks-10 Days

The Trains from Kandy to Ella vs Nuwara Eliya to Ella

Schedule of Trains from Kandy-Ella and Nuwara Eliya-Ella

views from nuwara eliya to ella train ride

From Kandy to Ella

8.47am - 2.55pm | LKR 1,200 ($4) *Mostly third class reserved seats available
11.03am - 5.00pm | LKR 1,200 ($4) *Mostly third class reserved seats available
8.13am - 2.41pm (Luxury Ella Odyssey Train ride) | From LKR 7,000 - 4,000 ($23 - $13) (featuring airconditioned, second class & third class seats)

From Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya) to Ella
(From LKR 2,000 - LKR 900 : $7 to $3)

9.30am
12.45pm
3.00pm
3.55pm

P/S: In case, you can’t get reserved tickets, you can walk in like what I did in Nanu Oya station and get third-class unreserved tickets for 150LKR ($0.50) standing. It is not the best situation but because the journey was short and I could sit by the doors, it was not too bad.

Where To Buy The Tickets From?

at nanu oya train station waiting for the train to head to ella

Online: You can buy your tickets from 12go.Asia or from the govt website (But sometimes tickets are sold out on the govt website unless you book 1 month before - bummer I know!)

Tours: If you don’t want to deal with logistics and are finding it hard to secure your tickets, you can book it here.

What Was The Experience Like?

crowded hallways during the train ride from nuwara eliya to ella

The train station in Nanu Oya feels like you’ve been transported to the 70s. It is nostalgic and oh so peaceful to see the calmness in the station.

I can’t imagine what’s it like in Kandy. Obviously, really chaotic.

But our train experience in Nanu Oya was still not free of crowds. It would in fact be the same even if you come from Kandy.

The only way to make the experience less crowded is if you come in from the opposite route (which means Ella to Kandy or Ella to Nuwara Eliya). That means doing the beaches first and leaving the last for the hillside/countryside.

You’ll find it easier to get tickets and there’ll be more breathing space.

Which is the best seat to get the best views?

From Kandy to Nanu Oya, the best side is on the right side. After Nanu Oya, the best views come on the left side.

Regardless, it’ll be really hard to pick a side with all the people so best to just stick to one side depending on where you’re coming from.

When is the best time to do the train ride to Ella?

The best time to take the Ella train ride is in its summer months - the dry seasons which are from December to March and July to September.

The weather is also way more cooler in the mountains and not unbearably hot.

Mornings are much better as the weather is more bearable and somehow the mist adds layers to the scenery especially in Nuwara Eliya. It’s far more peaceful too than the cranky crowds in the afternoon.

Also read: Why I Chose These Things To Do in Ella: My 3 Days Itinerary

All in all, is the actual train ride to Ella worth it?

To be honest, in every photograph on Instagram or TikTok everyone has overhyped this trip. It is a beautiful train ride but I don’t think it should be the highlight of your Sri Lanka trip.

If you want lovely photos and don’t mind 3 hours of a ride but still be shoulder to shoulder with crowds, the train ride from Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya) should be your pick.

7 hours from Kandy is an overkill and after an hour it can be pretty annoying.

What's more troubling is that a journey once meant for locals commuting to their hometowns or work has now turned into a struggle just to find a seat.

Whatever you do, try and see if you can get a reserved seat through the options I provided instead of the unreserved seat unless you don’t mind roughing it for a bit.

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