From Greek to Roman and Venetian heritage, I met up with my friend in May to cycle the Dalmatian islands and coast in Croatia, specifically from Split to Hvar.

Initially, we wanted to cycle the Ciro Trail, a 140-kilometer-long bicycle route in Bosnia that crosses from Mostar to Dubrovnik but we found out that it may be too gravelly and unless you’re on a bikepacking style adventure, maybe that route might be perfect.

I had all my gear, backpack and laptop that a bicycle touring setup with panniers seemed more doable from a bike rental and logistics perspective.

The idea of visiting olive groves, vineyards and historic villages while gorging on truffle pasta began to sound very appealing.

Cycling in croatia in the dalmatian islands and coast from split to hvar

The Dalmatian coast has also been an up-and-coming destination for bike tourism. It is not flat and has routes that have an elevation gain of 700 metres making it the perfect trip if you want a bit of challenge and cool endings in the ocean.

You could very well ride the main highway from Split to Dubrovnik but honestly, the best way was to escape vehicular traffic and jump onboard Croatia’s car ferries called Jadrolinija.

I met up with my friend in Split and we e-mailed the guys at Red Adventures Croatia to reserve two bikes with panniers for 17 euros per day. He recommended the island route such as Brac, Hvar, Korcula, and Pelješac and finishing in Dubrovnik.

But we wanted to take it slow and modified the route to end in Split. If you have more time like 10 days, some other routes which are worth doing is the Istrian Peninsula — cycling all the way from Trieste to Dubrovnik. You start in Italy, cross to Slovenia and end in Croatia.

Also Read: In The Heat: Cycling The Danube from Vienna to Budapest

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Other Cycling & Adventure Tours

If you’re not up for cycling on your own and want to bring along someone but still experience the beauty of this region, here are some tours I would recommend:

Makarska: E-bike tour around historical villages: You get to see old villages, old churches and fortress alongside most amazing views on Makarska, sea and the islands and also the Biokovo range.
From Supetar & Postira: Vidova Gora to Dol Biking Tour: You get to enjoy highest peak of the island Brač, riding downhill to the seaside. There’s a great biking trail towards the villages, before tasting the best olive oil and homemade marmalades in a famous Olive Oil Museum.
From Split & Trogir: 5 Islands Day Trip with Blue Cave: This is a non-cycling trip but a pretty good way to see all the islands from Split on a half-day trip. You get to wander through the traditional fishing village of Komiža and have time snorkel and swim in the pristine blue waters.

Also Read: These Best Islands in Croatia (Near Split) Beat Everything I've Seen!

Day 1: Split - Marjan Hill (10km)

taking a break with a view of the open adriatic sea

We arrived in the second largest city of Croatia, Split. The city has a nice mix of modern life and ancient history but what’s more apparent is the fact that it is a large transportation hub and starting point for ferry routes all over the Adriatic coast.

It was May — cold and wet — honestly, not the “heatwave” I had read about time and again. But we got a feel of the town and went for a walk in the cobbled streets, and admired the stunning architecture from the Venetian era.

Right in the heart of the city, you’ll see the Diocletian’s Palace and other popular attractions such as the Cathedral of Saint Domnius and a statue of Marko Marulic – the founder of Croatian literature.

If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, you might know that the palace basement was used as a filming location.

To test our bikes and wheels, we rode all the way to Marjan Hill from the Oldtown with plenty of pitstops especially at Jezinac Bay.

Just a stone's throw away from the ancient Roman walls, the Marjan Hill which is 178m high offers a refreshing contrast to the historic cityscape.

We came across these Santine Rocks - Marjan’s third peak which is essentially a fire tower and the church of St. Jerome. This lookout point was a nice break to take in the view and be away from the tourist crowds.

What was lovely was to see the Adriatic Sea sparkling with a kaleidoscope of colors, offering a postcard-worthy scene.

If you’re looking for a nice starting point with good accommodations, here’s where to stay in Split.

Where to stay in Split:
- Leonilda Rooms (We stayed here and it was perfect!)
- Kovacic rooms
- Ivona

Also Read: 7 or 10 Days Croatia Itinerary: National Parks To Coastlines

Day 2: Split to Supetar (Brač) - Bol (36km)

foggy weather, cycling from Split to bol

We boarded the early morning car ferry from Split to Brac. The best way is to check the schedule online and head to the counter to buy the tickets. It took us about one hour to reach Supetar.

As the boat rocked back and forth, the wind was particularly fierce and it was a gloomy day. Not the sunshine and blue skies that we had pictured in our heads. Families were all onboard starting their holidays on the shoulder season but there weren’t too many people.

We reached Supetar and got on our bikes to cycle to the main town of Brac. Google maps may have written that the journey would take 36km but bear in mind that Brac was super hilly and we had an elevation gain of 700metres with atrocious weather and 10% gradients at times.

Covered in fog and mist, we were pinching ourselves that today’s ride would be almost viewless. There’s rugged terrain and towering cliffs but none of that could be seen, just endless miles of fog, mist, and heavy rain.

We were hoping to bump into olive orchard owners, local fishermen and to listen to their tales of resilience and connection to the sea. Afterall, Brač is not just a postcard destination; it's a living canvas of life, shaped by the elements. But these elements were on a different tangent at this time of the year.

Taking a break at Nerežišć was necessary but the longer we stopped, the harder it became to pedal through. Our packed lunch and hot chocolate at a nearby cafe felt like a godsend during this trip.

We continued on towards our journey and at the fork of Gornji Humac, it’s a downward descent all the way into Bol town. What could have been a thrilling ride turned out to be the hardest.

The biting cold from the wind was relentless, and I couldn't help but shiver as I pedaled downhill towards the quaint village of Bol.

The thought of seeking refuge in a warm cafe and sipping on a steaming cup of hot cocoa spurred me forward. As I approached Bol village, the sight of its cozy stone houses brought a glimmer of relief. The village appeared to be nestled in a cocoon of warmth, a sanctuary from the harsh elements.

As we arrived at Guesthouse Marija, the owner was the most wonderful lady and she said “You know it’s not normal to have this kind of weather now!”.

the best chocolate cake in ranc restaurant

The evening was spent drying our stuff and the owner dropping us in this cute but fancy restaurant called Ranc and having free rakija (a potent Balkan spirit that’s made from plums) and this rich orange chocolate cake! All completely on the house — and wow, I already love Croatia for its endless hospitality!

A golden tip: To experience the true essence of local rakija, venture to a traditional distillery, where skilled artisans lovingly craft this cherished beverage. They'll proudly share stories of their craft, passing down the secrets that have been guarded for centuries.

Where to stay in Bol:
- Guest House Marija (Recommended because of the lovely owner and affordable price with balcony views)
- Guest House Meri
- Lifestyle Hotel Vitar

Day 3: Bol to Murvica (5.5km)

some of the best views on the way to murvica

Sometimes, the weather has a way of changing our plans and leading us on unexpected adventures.

We weren’t ready to leave Bol without visiting Zlatni Rat, the Golden Horn Beach. There are plenty of things to do in Bol as well like hiking Vidova Gora, the hike is 5 km long and takes you 770 meters up.

It takes roughly 4 hours in terms of total hiking time but with the unpredictable weather — we decided to cycle to Murvica instead.

Murvica is just 5km from the town but the sunny skies and stunning coastlines make the slow bike ride absolutely worth it.

A highlight of this village is the intriguing collection of prehistoric dwellings carved into the cliffsides. These ancient monk's dwellings, locally known as "bunje," offer a glimpse into the island's rich history. Each bunja has a story to tell, a tale of solitude and spiritual contemplation that echoes through the ages.

We reached the end of the road and parked our bike and explored the village on foot, discovering hidden alleyways and stone staircases that led to breathtaking viewpoints.

The vistas from the cliffs were stunning, offering sweeping views of the Adriatic coastline and the majestic mountains beyond.

The best part was slowing down and taking it all in. We came across mountain bikers who were offroading all the way towards the monastery. There’s this abandoned hermitage monastery built in the year 1512 but it appeared close.

Another option is to park your bike and climb to the “Dragons cave” Zmajeva špilja. It is a 50 minutes hike to the top in the heart of the Vidova Gora mountains.

Throughout the centuries, it served as the residence and sanctuary of priests fleeing invasion in Turkey to continue their monastic lives in the caves. If you love history and abandoned buildings, this could be a cool place to wander!

Day 4: Brac (Sumartin) - Makarska - Drvenik (45km)

en route to drvenik from makarska in the biokovo range

The next day brought an unexpected twist to our island escapade – a torrential downpour that showed no signs of relenting.

Scarred by the terrible weather on the previous day, I had no intention of climbing up those switchbacks so instead we got a bus to Gornji Humac and planned to cycle to the other end of Brac called Sumartin.

It was just a 15km ride but cycling in such inclement weather and with news of floods in some places, I just didn’t feel like getting drenched.

It was particularly hard to hitchhike and nobody could really see us at this obscure bus stop other than a group of students. We waited two hours for good weather and good samaritans to take us to Sumartin but nobody stopped.

Admitting defeat to the relentless rain, we decided to make use of the local taxi service to the ferry port. One hour was all it took to reach Makarska but the highlight were the conversations that we had during and after the ferry ride.

We met an American couple and their adopted orphan daughter who were renting a car and travelling for more than 6 months in Europe.

Also met two other cyclists from Europe who were on a bikepacking adventure towards Dubrovnik — they were obviously surprised with our panniers compared to their minimalist bikepacking setup.

Makarska and its entire Riviera would have been the perfect stop as it is home to the Biokovo range and a high mountain peak called Sveti Jure.

Sveti Jure is the second tallest mountain in Croatia at 1,762 meters and absolutely worth the extra stay in Makarska.

But the weather was not in our favour and cycling up a mountain in bad weather was not what we wanted. Makarska appeared crowded than usual with a lot of cruise crowds as well. Unsure what to do next, we decided to cycle to Drvenik and rode for a good 30km.

The road ahead seemed to be a never-ending tapestry of coastal vistas and lush greenery, a delightful feast for the senses after two days of bad weather.

The Biokovo range on one side and the Dalmatian coast on the other with undulating roads was a breeze to cycle on!

We had to be mindful of the speeding vehicles at some bends as roads were sometimes narrow but never too busy. I imagine it to be quite worst if anyone was cycling towards Dubrovnik!

We reached Drvenik and had no idea what this town was about — we just knew it was a good stop to break our trip as we head towards Hvar.

Drvenik was a small coastal village on the Makarska Riviera; while the views were lovely and quaint, a lot of places seemed abandoned and quiet. The best thing to do is venture off path and hike up 45 minutes to these ruins and fortresses.

You’ll pass through some picturesque olive groves and a lot of tombstones but it’s hard to make out the history of this place.

This was an archaelogist wonderland as all these ruins and remnants bear witness to the fact that life in the area of Drvenik existed way before the 13th century.

Where to stay in Drvenik:
- Apartment Luna
- Sajeta Beach Apartments
- Hotel Ivando

Day 5: Drvenik - Hvar (Sucuraj) - Jelsa (52km)

Cycling in hvar from sucuraj to jesla — views of croatia’s sea

The sun was shining and there were hundreds of miles of salt water in every direction, all of it illuminated by a golden sun climbing up from the horizon.

We started early in the morning and it took us all of 30 minutes to get from Drvenik to Hvar, Sucuraj. This was the easternmost tip of Hvar and a fishermen’s town and port, a place where most who head to Old Town won’t know about it or even visit.

The sun, the blue sea, and the mountains from the other side looked jaw-droppingly beautiful as we pedalled out underneath this beautiful blue sky. It was 22 degrees and we had about 52km to cover to reach Jesla.

We could have cycled to the Old Town but from what we read, it can get quite busy and chaotic and expensive to jostle with all these rolling suitcases and endless steps.

We decided Jesla would be our ideal stop and we could always grab a bus to the Old Town which is not too far away.

stunning views all around us in hvar while cycling

There was no vehicles in sight. It was too early in the morning but after an hour or so we passed by a cycling group on tour with e-bikes. “Damn those e-bikes!”, I exclaimed under my breath as we cycled up steep inclines.

We passed through quaint stone houses adorned with vibrant bougainvillea adding splashes of color to the picturesque scenery. At the 18km mark in Bogomolje, we stopped at “Olive oil tasting Radojkovic” for olive oil and cheese tasting.

Alternatively, if you’re here for longer, you could also book a wine and olive tasting tour in the area of Vinogorje Hvar

The owner was so wonderful and knowledgeable and explained in detail about his extra-virgin olive oil which is obtained by cold-pressing olives and lemons at the same time. His family cultivates 450 olive trees and has opened an oil mill and tasting room where we sampled chili olive oil, orange olive oil and truffle olive oil.

We continued cycling and the road meandered through rolling hills and sun-kissed meadows, offering breathtaking views at every turn. We stopped for a coffee break in Poljica — the owner had a cute coffee setup where they sold honey and olive oil.

It was getting hotter and we tried to buy time by talking to the owner and she said she loves it here in Poljica, as it is not crazy busy like Hvar town.

After a lot of breaks, and flower spotting, we reached Jesla. It took a while to find our accomodation and the town was sleepy, laidback and had not a lot going on.

But we found it really nice and quiet to just linger around and take a break with some proper meals and seafood.

Where to stay in Jelsa:
- Apartments and rooms Dobrila
- Villa Rosa
- Villa Vista

Where to stay in Hvar:
- Aparments Haracic
- Heritage Suites Zanini
- Sparrow Nest Hvar

Day 6: Day Trip to Hvar Old Town

We took a break from cycling and the early morning bus to explore Hvar Old Town. There has been so much said, talked and discussed about Hvar and mentioned in guidebooks about how it is a true Mediterranean gem full of Venetian architecture and cobbled streets.

Hvar Town is estimated to draw around 20,000 people a day in the high season and that explains its growing popularity and prices ofcourse!

But the scent of Jasmine trees and marbled streets with its crystal blue water adds a distinctly Croatian aesthetic.

We got in early to check out the morning market to pick up some fresh produce and popped in at a bakery to have coffee and some fresh pastries.

Before the summer heat became intense, we decided to hike to the Napoleon fortress. The hike begins with a gentle ascent, winding through fragrant pine forests. It is a nice woody trail and we were able to view the Pakleni Islands, a chain of rocky islets just off the coast of Hvar.

I would also recommend trying out a half-day afternoon sailing tour to the Paklinski Islands. You get to stop for a swim and experience what’s it like to sail on 37ft-racing sailing boat!

Many people choose to hike at sunset or sunrise, and for good reason – witnessing the sun dipping below the horizon from the fortress is an experience that will stay with you for a lifetime.

We descended after an hour and headed for the Spanish fortress to get a view of Hvar’s old town and hear the town’s clock bells from above. This is also the same route towards the fortress.

All the heat, walking and sweating made us yearn for a cool dip and Gelato. Our clothes were damp with sweat, and the warm Mediterranean sun beamed down on us, urging us to seek respite.

With a burst of excitement, we waded into the clear, turquoise waters, feeling the cool embrace of the sea envelop us. It was pure bliss – a moment of sheer bliss where time seemed to stand still, and all worries melted away.

The gelato and the sea became the perfect combination, a delightful contrast of sweetness and coolness, making this afternoon a true slice of paradise.

Day 7: Hvar - Stari Grad - Split (10km)

This was a short cycling trip (10km) and it was almost the end of it as we had to catch the long ferry ride from Stari Grad to Split.

As we set off from Jelsa, it was a gloomy day, and we took a longer route to stop in Vrboska. There was only one cafe open and the town seems to be under construction. Not a great detour, but we decided to pedal on and ride towards Stari Grad.

The sun played hide-and-seek with the clouds, casting dappled shadows on the road, adding to the allure of the journey. As we were cycling through landscapes which looked like the paddy fields in Asia, we stumbled across a gravelly bike path.

This was a pretty cool dirt path as we spotted a lot of finds pinned on Google maps including an abandoned aerodrome, a van, and a signpost indicated “Gorgillo’s Path” which was apparently one of the directions of the Greek land divisions.

A memorial was dedicated built by artists who decided to build ‘small stories for every day’ which we couldn’t quite make up what it was for but seemed to commemorate a difficult past while quoting philosophers like Nietzche.

This route seemed to whisper tales of past wars, igniting our curiosity about the story behind its name. We couldn't help but wonder about the origins and the stories it held.

It was time to head back and reach Split and end the cycling trip.

Although the cycling days were short because of bad weather, we had cycled through olive groves and villages, tasted the flavors of the Mediterranean, and immersed ourselves in the island's rich history.

The trip had taught us the beauty of embracing spontaneity, the joy of immersing ourselves in nature, and the power of travel to ignite a sense of wonder and curiosity within us.

Also Read: Hiking The Peaks of The Balkans Trail: Along the Accursed Mountains (Self-Guided)

Other Croatia Cycling Routes

Cycling The Dalmatia Islands (Optional and Longer Route)

If you want to cycle on your own, I would recommend these amazing routes:

1: Split to Brac
2: Brac to Makarska
3: Drvenik to Hvar
4: Hvar to Korcula: Only catamaran (would need to check if they allow bicycles or not)
5: Korcula (Domince) to Orebic
6: Prapratno to Mljet

Cycling the Istrian Peninsular - Italy, Slovenia and Croatia

1: Trieste to Piran
2: Piran to Porec
3: Porec to Pula
4: Pula to Zadar
5: Zadar to Biograd
6: Biograd to Primosten
7: Primosten to Split
8: Split to Drvenik
9: Drvenik to Korcula
10: Korcula to Dubrovnik

If you did this trip or are planning to, share with me in the comments below!

Europe

Cycling The Dalmatian Islands in Croatia: Split to Hvar